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June 18th, 2009 | 
Author: After wandering—and pushing—around for a few minutes I spotted a circus wagon frontage with the word “Paymaster” inscribed in ornate lettering. I must have been one of the first to cash in, as almost everyone else was preoccupied with the razzle-dazzle of opening day. I pushed my chips in to an impeccably dressed guy inside, one with a $2,000 suit and a $50 haircut. Saddled with a splitting headache from all the clamor, 1 just wanted out. “Just gimme my money and let me out of this bedlam. When I shoot raps I sure as hell don’t want to step into elephant shit! You better believe I’M NEVER COMING BACK TO THIS FUCKING CRAZY CASINO AGAIN”
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Maybe I overreacted just a trifle, maybe I was rude to the dude, but I just needed to express my desire to split as soon as possible. Mad as a hatter, the guy, in all his sartorial splendor, counted out my money, and gave me one of the dirtiest dirty looks I’ve ever been zapped with, as I wheeled around and hightailed it out to the street.
A couple of weeks later in New York I picked up Life magazine which, to my surprise, had an eight-page photo spread on the gala opening of Circus Circus in Las Vegas. Along with all the pictures was a short interview with the very same Beau Brummel from the cashier’s cage—Jay Sarno, one of the owners of Circus Circus. “What makes me mad,” he complained, “are these guys who come in and hit and run and complain about elephant shit. We don’t have any elephants at Circus Circus.”
Today, most casinos are corporate entities, run by MBA CEOs with $1,000 suits, button-down shirts, and pricey ties. Their marketing departments are jammed with high-tech computers and business machines manned by accountants that you would expect to find in a shoelace factory’s office. When I first got to Las Vegas in the early 1960s, all the casinos were either controlled by the mob or by free-wheeling, old-time gamblers who started out running sawdust joints in the Old West. A lot of their accounting was done in back rooms by shady-looking, cigarette-smoking characters wearing visors and wrinkled sport shirts.
Whenever a new casino would open, as the Castaways did in the early 60s—an ill-fated venture built directly across from the Sands—all the other High Rolling casino games owners would swoop down on opening day, loaded with money, and with the evil intent to try their luck at the tables, doing their damnedest to put the newcomer out of business. A wild idea to be sure, but a long-standing Vegas tradition nevertheless.
In the case of some new casinos, the ploy turned out to be an unexpected shot in the arm for the new kid on the block, and the old-timers retreated, licking their wounds. In the case of the Castaways, the good ol’ boys had a lucky run at the tables and cleaned out the Castaways’ cashier’s cage by dawn. And damned if the casino wasn’t forced to close its doors the very next day for a spell, until it was finally able to hustle up new financing for a reopening.
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Las Vegas’s allure is irresistible to the world’s tourists, and also for our country’s conventioneers. Tradeshow Week magazine ranked Las Vegas at the top of their list of America’s most popular convention sites in 1999. This oasis in the desert hosted 32 of the 200 largest conventions in the United States, followed distantly by Chicago and New York. But conventioneers beware! Las Vegas has its allure, and it also has its drawbacks. The noted Philadelphia attorney Albert B. Gerber booked a First Amendment Lawyers Association (FALA) annual meeting there. His endless problem was corralling FALA lawyers who were strung out at the gambling tables, and getting them into the seminars and meetings.
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Conventions in the following years were held in cities offering less razzle-dazzle.
All those genial, ever-smiling casino hosts and owners are always playing hardball, no matter how friendly they appear. Even when they go out of their way to comp you for a drink or a meal, they have only one thought in their mind, just one goal on their agendas: separating you from your money as quickly as possible. In case you doubt what I say, let me tell you about the gala opening day of Circus Circus in Las Vegas.
Ballyhooed for weeks prior to its debut as the first Las Vegas casino geared for the family crowd, opening day at Circus Circus was eagerly anticipated. When the day came, the crowds lined up early. Frankly, I didn’t give a tinker’s dam for a family-oriented casino as I was a foot-loose bachelor, and a casino was a casino, but this day I was with a lady friend-of-the-moment who was eager to see the new attraction. Reluctantly 1 said okay, and we joined the long line that snaked halfway to the next casino. 1 hadn’t seen a line this long since the heyday of Radio City Music Hall. After an interminable wait we finally got inside. With all the hoopla and advance publicity, there was more razzle-dazzle than one could imagine. Bands, acrobats, circus animals. Dozens of carnival booths ringed the three-story building, with all the carnies hawking their wares and spieling their spiel, not to mention the jugglers, clowns, and trapeze artists that rounded out the pageant.
You get the picture. The damn noise from all of the above was maddening. Fighting my way to a green-felt table—any green-felt table—was a hassle in itself. Finally 1 managed to squeeze in at a craps table (I really didn’t want to shoot craps, but getting a seat at a blackjack table was well-nigh impossible). I stuck it out for a few hands because a guy at the other end of the table had a great shoot, but the cacophony was beginning to get to me. Able to stand it no longer, I picked up my chips and looked around for the cashier’s cage.
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